The South Riding RV Travels

81

June 23rd - St Mary MT - Glacier National Park

We started from our campground in St Mary and headed north to Babb and then west along Sherburne Lake to Many Glaciers Lake. This is the trailhead for many walks but we elected to do just a short 3 mile loop round the lake..
The 'U' shape is very characteristic of glacial valleys. Several glaciers drain into this point hence the name of the area and the lake. The differing blues are a function of sunlight angle and varying depths. The weather was variable with quite a strong and bitter wind blowing.
We kept coming across these grass heads of what we later learned is bear grass. Apparently it only flowers every five or six years and this is obviously the 'flowering' year because it is flowering profusely everywhere. The grassy tussock at the base is the main plant. It looks like a variation on a yucca.
Another view of the lake, this time almost from the hotel at the east end..
This is just downstream from the lake as the waters start their journey downstream through Lake Sherburne to Lower St Mary Lake at Babb. There was quite a bit of water flowing so the results were quite impressive..
All around the area we kept seeing these 1936 White coaches. There are 33 in the fleet and they provide tours of the area, sometimes with the roof open and sometimes closed. The buses have been completely rebuilt. The bodies are original oak frames but they now have new Ford chassis and engines just like an RV. Bit more power than the original 12HP engines, and to be environmentally friendly they now run on propane!.
The Many Glacier Lodge has an impressive four storey atrium using bare Douglas fir trunks going all the way up. The hotel has undergone major reconstruction since it was discovered to be falling into the lake! It was built by the Great Northern Railway company to encourage tourism and thus passenger traffic on its line.

We had coffee here then returned to St Mary to refuel and go up the Going to the Sun road. This 55 mile road across the park has a vehicle length limitation of 21ft on it so we knew we had to view it in sections from each end by scooter.

This is apparently one of the most photographed and painted points in the park. The tiny island in the middle is Goose Island. No geese at this time of year.
As we progressed along the road, several spectacular features appeared including this huge gulley, again, I suspect, carved by a glacier. The waterfall part way up is not small. The road just beyond this area has waterfalls cascading down onto the road every few yards at this time of year. We could easily have got soaked in the freezing cold water.
So to Logan Pass, the highest point on the road and which is only about 20 miles in from the east side. This marks the continental divide so waters from beyond here go to the Pacific. A bit further north in the park is a three way divide because one river flow out to the Arctic Ocean by way of Hudson Bay..
The views from the visitor centre are spectacular particularly since most of the snow had not melted. This road is only open from mid June to mid October.

We had wanted to see the wild flowers in the alpine meadows on a  walk up to Hidden Lake, basically in the direction you see, up and over that ridge about 400 ft up. We had not expected snow and were not well equipped for this outing, and we thought it was getting a bit late to start.

It is about 1.5 miles to the lake which you can see below in the valley here. However much of the surface was still frozen over. The wind was blowing pretty strongly and the clouds kept covering and revealing the sun so the view changed by the minute.
This is the view to the right of the one above showing the end of the lake and the hills down the valley towards the Pacific (through which gap the wind came!).
Despite the desperately short summer and very harsh winter these Columbian ground squirrels were hard at work gathering, oblivious to the presence of humans. I also saw other similar sized creatures but they all moved too fast for the camera..
Not so this bedraggled motheaten looking mountain goat which ambled through. The walkways of the viewing platform were just an easy way to get from A to B for him. He has about three months to lose this coat and grow a new one. -40°F is not uncommon here before any wind chill, and 100mph winds are not unknown.
Still some things do survive and bloom despite (or maybe because of) the conditions. These glacier lilies formed a carpet on the little bits of meadow where the snow had melted..
This is the view back from Hidden Lake, the path goes through there and then down some 350ft. Going downhill was not far short of a controlled fall. I think, in hindsight, coming back down was worse than going up. Mind you, looking at some of the people still setting out, we wondered how some of them were going to make it, and many obviously wouldn't.
As the sun goes down in the sky, it really sets off the shapes and colours in the rocks. The striations in these cliffs really show up. The colours may not come out well here but the overall spectacle is quite awesome.
On the way back down we paused at Sunrift Gorge. Here the water tumbles down a long narrow gorge and it was obvious if we waited for the right moment, then the setting sun would peep down too.

Walking a short distance in the other direction, past several smaller waterfalls, we came to Baring Falls. They all form a small river (torrent) which descends into Upper St Mary Lake.

We did 85 miles on the scooter and it was too far. Carrying two stresses it and us and for 85 miles in one day, it stressed us too much.