The South Riding RV Travels

542

05th-10th June 2009 - Nuevo Casas Grande to Truth or Consequences to Albuquerque, New Mexico Chihuahua

We left Nuevo Casas Grandes but still had 150 miles of the Chihuahuan desert to the US border. Miles of scrub and flat. Several army checkpoints since this is border bandit country. It is hard to imagine a more inhospitable place. However they were courteous and we had no trouble. I guess it was because our reason to be there was obvious.
We finally reached Palomas which was to be our crossing point. This is less third worldish than Agua Prieta but only because there is almost nothing there but the border post - on either side.

First we had to deal with the Mexican authorities and return our tourist visas and the permit for the camper. I removed it from the windscreen which apparently I'm not supposed to do, but it was OK and soon we were free to cross into the US.

The Americans have built a wall to stop the Mexicans getting in - well, more likely to be seen to be doing something since appears to have little effect.

We were told to leave the RV and sit in a wire cage while five of them including a dog searched the RV. But no problems and in 20 minutes we were finally on our way. But it was still a stressful experience. Americans still know how to make you feel welcome!

There are probably more people work in Palomas/Columbus than live there. I can't imagine working there let alone living even close. It is another 30 miles north to Deming, the first populated town in the US. However Palomas does have lots of dentists and pharmacies to service Americans who come down for these services which are MUCH cheaper in Mexico than in the US.
North of the border isn't really much different to south of it. The scrub is the same and the roads are just as flat albeit a little wider.
We were heading for Albuquerque but knew we wouldn't get there in one day. We had thought to stop in Deming but with a smooth border crossing we had time to push on further. You find all sorts of things on and beside the roads including this giant pink pig. It doesn't fly but probably does the next best thing.
We finally stopped at Caballo Lake just south of Truth or Consequences. We actually stayed three days partly to recover from the stress of the crossing and the long days driving since Zacatecas, but also because it was one of the most enjoyable campsites we have stayed on. They had a camp meeting/happy hour each afternoon and it was nice to have some good conversation with fellow campers, almost the first we had seen in two months.
It was also strange not to be on an empty campsite. We began to realise that we might have to book sites for the rest of our trip since they might be full - a unique thought!
Eventually we left and travelled on to the peculiarly named city of Truth or Consequences. It used to be called Hot Springs because of the thermal spas it has, but a game show host offered to fund a gala each year for any town which would change its name to the game show name. They did and have benefited greatly from the tourism it has generated.
The game show is long gone and the host has died but the name has remained although there are periodic attempts to change it back. In this part of the world it is just one of those places you have to visit, along with Why, another border town about 100 miles to the west.
We travelled on to Albuquerque and stopped at a campsite on the outskirts of town. The owners have this 1950s Hudson made doubly famous after the movie 'Cars'. They have another 1947 model but not in such good condition and a couple of tiny caravans of similar vintage.
We took the RV to a park and ride, and then caught a bus into the old town. This is not much more than a couple of blocks each way, mainly with Spanish colonial architecture and full of expensive craft and art shops. We also found a handful of tourists. I would think places like this are struggling with the economic climate because nothing was cheap.
St Felipe de Neri was influential here too. Remember this was part of Mexico until relatively recent times. This is an old mission church with the rounded edges of the adobe style.
Inside is traditional but nowhere near as ornate as the churches south of the border. The architecture is different too with much more rounded vaulting.
We stopped for a coffee at a cafe which has a mural all along the wall with all the names of the original settlers and the story of how they founded Albuquerque. It is on the Camino Real, the road to Santa Fe.
There are lots of leafy courtyards surrounded by little art shops selling pots and jewellery and similar tourist goods.

The modern town centre is now about four miles further east where the railway runs.

We did find this pot which we rather liked but I don't think we could get it home. And note Jan's jacket - it was positively cool when we set out this morning.
Equally, this glass vase, while very attractive, is not going to travel well. We are going to have enough trouble with a wooden marlin I have bought.
I quite liked this pot for obvious reasons but it doesn't really have any significance and could have been bought anywhere. We much prefer the Mata Ortiz one we bought in Paquimé.
He/she is fun and is the symbol of The Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory which we have found in many places. We quite liked the seat too.

But Albuquerque became a place of shopping for the things we want to take back home. Jan has bought quite a lot of furnishing fabric which can be much cheaper here.