The South Riding RV Travels

541

05th June 2009 - Chihuahua to Nuevo Casas Grandes, Chihuahua, México - Paquimé Archaeological Site Chihuahua

Chihuahua has an enormous orange metal sculpture to the south. To the north it has another not quite but still 30 metres high. It represents a synthesis of pre-Hispanic, European, Asian and Moslem elements. It is called Árbol de la Vida (Tree of Life) and is another Sebastián construction.
We headed north on the toll road. At the toll booth we passed two trucks with loads like this. Unfortunately nobody had planned a way round the toll booths. So they were busy taking down the fence presumably with the idea that they could drive across the field and so get around the toll booth.
Such roads as these are interesting because although they are toll roads they are not always what we expect of a motorway. This one is not even dual carriageway. Consequently when you find tractors cutting the grass verge you have to take care getting past. This is quite like France!
Not like France are the wandering animals. They are one of the reasons they do not recommend that you drive at night in Mexico. Hitting  an animal this size can make a real mess of your car!
However the road is still straight and flat and goes on for miles. There are no trees and few features to break the monotony.
We bypassed the south of Nuevo Casas Grandes to old Casas Grandes which is where the Paquimé archaeological site is. This is the entrance and the museum building.
Inside the museum is a model of how they believed the site once looked. Archaeologically it is very much a work in progress.

It is thought to have been a major trading settlement from around 900AD until it was invaded and sacked, perhaps by the Apache, in 1340AD.

There are pots from the period mostly made using spirals of clay, a method still used in the area today.
Some of the pottery is quite strange and full of symbolic meaning like this person lying on his side.
Although not as white as the modern pottery, the patterns are very similar to the famous Mata Ortíz pottery made just down the road today.
Quite a number of the pieces have faces or animals incorporated into them which was quite sophisticated for the time.
Besides pottery they also did a lot of work with copper. The whole of north Mexico was, and still is, one of the richest sources of copper and other metals in the world.
A painting showing a selection of symbols found in various ruins from the period.
There are photographs of the native peoples who live in the area today, many of whom can trace their existence here back to the ancient times. This is a Zuñi man but there are also Navajo and Hopi.
Most of the buildings are of adobe construction and in surprising good condition. We think that many of the stone walls have been added as protection from the elements.
.Excavation and restoration began in the 1950s and is ongoing. Some of the areas obviously had specialised uses which sometimes we can only guess at. However there are indications that this was a kitchen area.
Not easy to see in the photograph but this was a Pelota field with its characteristic I shape..
The maze-like shape is quite unique and makes this site instantly recognisable. Note that most of the rooms are known to be underground.
To protect the fragile remains you cannot enter any of the buildings any more. The doorways are very small and the windows even smaller.
Many of the buildings had underground sources of water fed from a central reservoir. Note the sieve and the pile of sand in the foreground where they are still working..
.Some of the areas are quite large. This is thought to have been some form of government chamber.
There were few other visitors but with temperatures in excess of 100˚F that was somewhat understandable. Mad dogs and Englishmen.......