The South Riding RV Travels

534

31st May 2009 - Zacatecas, México - Part I

Following our usual pattern, we took the bus into the centre of town. This is another place built in the bottom of a valley with steep sides. The water runs down the road and then drops into a sewer. Just don't try t in a car, there are steps at the side.
Zacatecas was the centre of the Spanish silver mining industry and at one time 20% of the world's silver was mined here. We found a set of stone murals around a park commemorating the mining industry.
We had a bit of difficulty finding the centre to begin with and so found other things like this road with its very attractive stone lamps. The centre is actually the other way (behind us).
When you find buildings like this you know you are getting close to the centre. This obviously holds official offices for something. It is quite imposing and looks out over a square.
Spain is the home of bullfighting, but it also goes on in Mexico. Recently they built a new bull ring and this was the old one, now called Antigua Plaza de Toros San Pedro. It has been tastefully converted into a five star hotel. I suspect the original ring didn't look as pretty as it does now.
Water in Mexico was always a problem and many of the cities have the remains of aqueducts, often well preserved. They have been doing quite a lot of work on this one. It is known as El Cubo and was constructed over 250 years ago.
Opposite the aqueduct is a park which has this statue of Gonzales Ortega, another hero of the independence struggles. A century later Zacatecas was a stronghold of the revolution and Pancho Villa actually captured the city, defeating the stronghold of 12,000 government troops.
The park has a programmed fountain with music playing and we sat and watched it for a while. What amused us most was the fact that nearly all the pieces of music played were orchestral versions of Beatles tracks. The weather was very hot and we were up at around 7500ft.
We had spotted this pink church which turns out to be fairly modern. This is the Temple of Fatima. The foundations of this impressive neo-gothic building were laid in 1950. The first day we went was a Sunday and there were confirmation services going on so most of these photos are from the following day when the church was almost empty.
Inside is very impressive but it is the variations in the pink granite which really make this building so special.
Most churches will have one or two stained glass windows but in this church all the windows have very vivid glass. And the pictures extend from one pane to the next which is very modern. A lot of money was spent on this church. It probably does quite well because it was full on the Sunday.
Even the dome was built with stone and not plastered as most have been. All the windows in the dome have stained glass
The vaulting looks beautiful but it only serves to point up how clever the builders were 500 years ago when they built in almost exactly the same style. The variation in stone colouring really shows here.
Viewed from outside you can really see how many windows there are and how much stained glass there is.
The temple is built on a hillside above the park and can be seen from all over the city. In many ways this is a much more impressive church than the cathedral.
There are many grand buildings around, highlighting how wealthy this city was. Today this houses the Francisco Goitia museum of Zacatecan plastics.
Moving on down towards the town centre we passed many more imposing buildings, mostly dating from the early 1900s.
Sometimes the colour of the stone provides the attraction, in other places they have rendered and painted the infill panels.
The Mexicans are not afraid to use colour, although it is often more garish than this tasteful blue offsetting the pink of the stone.
There are a number of buildings with this multicoloured stone which looks truly amazing.
There are so many good looking buildings and they all seem in very good condition. I suspect that some had been built in more recent times but to an earlier style.
We didn't find quite as many churches, and being that it was Sunday, we didn't go inside many of them. They seemed to have services all day.
There are still plenty of statues and musicians feature quite prominently. However a harp with strings is fairly unusual.
Next to the cathedral is the old market hall with its iron columns. This is the Gonzalez Ortega Market built in the 1880s.
Inside are just a few high class tourist shops, none of which you would associate with a market hall as it would once have been. The sign on the carriage only says 'don't touch!'