The South Riding RV Travels

531

28th May 2009 - Guanajuato, México - Part I Museums

As we left San Miguel de Allende we spotted these iron chickens outside a Pollo Feliz chicken restaurant (a sort of Mexican KFC).
Most of our travelling seems to be through countryside like this now. We are up on the central plain which is mostly between 6000 and 7000ft which has major impact on the vegetation.
Today we had a short journey to Guanajuato, the next place we wanted to visit, so we had time in the afternoon to catch a bus into the city centre from our campsite about 7km to the south. It is a strange and unique city built in a narrow valley with very steep sides, all of which are covered in little boxes made of ticky-tacky and all of different colours.
This is NOT a church but is the central market hall with stalls on two floors. We didn't buy anything though, not even the strawberries because we had nothing to carry them in.
We did see some churches including this one which looked very familiar (the Oratorio de Felipe Neri in San Miguel de Allende). This is the Temple of Belén which doesn't seem to rate a mention in our guide books but which I found quite attractive.
It follows the now established pattern with a finely decorated dome which provides light to the centre of the church.
The altar is less ornate than many but is surrounded by statues.
Normally the panels at the entrance are solid wood and you enter at the sides. In this case there were huge stained glass panels (4) depicting scenes which all seem to all involve children as would be natural for a church dedicated to a woman.
This is the Basílica de Nuestra Senora de Guanajuato. It was built between 1671 and 1696 and is one of the outstanding monuments of the Manieristic baroque of the 17th century. The clock cube was added a century later.
The original baroque altarpieces were lost in the 19th century and were replaced by others in the neoclassical style. However the central altarpiece still keeps the baldaquin that sheltered the old image of our lady of Guanajuato. The virgin is the patron of the city.
The carved doors are a wonder to behold.
We found another old church up by the University called the Temple of the Company of Jesus. It has  lots of external building work going on. Inside is huge and there are 10 separate altars including one for St Felipe Neri.
Behind the main altar is an art gallery because this church owns hundreds of paintings. We also found a temporary workshop area where some of the statues were undergoing repair.
Most of the paintings are from the late 17th or early 18th century and in an Italian style. But in almost every case the artist is 'Unknown' - a very prolific person!
The paintings aren't confined to canvas, many had been painted on the walls.
So we came to the University which was founded in 1732. Its hillside position makes it a very imposing building but also gives it lots of steps. Given that the city is at 6500ft climbing all those steps every day would ensure that you keep fit.
The buildings today are very modern and tower over the rest of the core of the city.
This plaque is on the wall of the Museo del Pueblo which is now an art museum including a collection of miniatures and paintings by local artists. It used to be the home of the Marqueses de San Juan de Rayas who owned the mine of the same name.
Underneath the university is one of the many tunnels under the city. Traffic from west to east travels in the tunnels and traffic from east to west travels above ground.
We walked up one of the hillside callejones (alleys - but mostly consisting of steep steps) and found this small chapel which was the earliest hospital in the city (1560-65).
We also found this wall of graffiti art. Some things are the same the world over.