The South Riding RV Travels

516

18th May 2009 - Playa Azul to Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, México Michoacan

Although the campground is in the hotel car park it was very pleasant, and very quiet when the weekend visitors went home. We had our own showers and toilet and the beach is only 50 yards away. We have actually found that a number of the campgrounds are attached to hotels/motels and they have generally been at least reasonable. But this will be our last sight of the sea as it is now time to turn inland.
Having driven down the Mex 200 for so long we thought we would give the ordinary road up into the mountains a miss and opted instead to go via the new toll motorway

Mistake! We got lost trying to navigate through Lázaro Cárdenas and had to retrace our steps for miles, running into this along the way. We must have gone over a hundred topes as well.

Eventually we found the bypass (completely unsigned) and headed around the city passing this lake, which turned out to be a reservoir.
Which we discovered as we went over the dam, being waved on at the army checkpoint halfway across. This is about the tenth army checkpoint we have been through but we have only been stopped once. Then I think they just wanted to look inside out of curiosity.
Below the dam is the power station. There seems to be quite a lot of hydroelectric power generation in Mexico.
Eventually we found the motorway, one lane each way but you do have a hard shoulder before the rain gutter. This is bliss after the eight foot way we have been travelling! AND almost no topes!
This is the Mex 37D (most toll roads have a D). It is a new and very impressive road which crosses the Sierra Madre Del Sur mountains as it makes its way up from sea level to 7000ft. This is a brief downhill stretch.
And the view as you get round the bend! We crossed lots of bridges like the ones here but came across very few towns and villages even off to the side. There is a section of maybe a 50km with no exits.
The road actually follows a valley which has a river in it which has been dammed so there are several power stations along the way generating over 3000MW.
These have equally impressive switching stations associated with them, presumably to raise the voltage to reduce losses as it is transmitted to the cities all of which are a long way from here.
A lot of the valley has been flooded to create the Infiernillo lake. This is the border between the states of Michoacán and Guerrero. The latter is a poor and relatively empty state whose main city is Acapulco, on the coast some 200 miles to the south.
We are at the end of the dry season and the summer rainy season is due any time. From the looks of the water levels it is overdue and will be very welcome.
This is one of the longer bridges made up of four sections. They are all painted the same colour which really brightens up the scenery.
All the bridges have names (even the one called 'Puente sin Nombre - bridge without a name!)
Further up the valley there were islands in the middle of the lake, but you can still see where the water level should be.
Occasionally the rock formations are quite spectacular although they are always high above you. They do like to warn you about bends. It's a pity they can't tell you where the road goes to occasionally.
No, the truck on the front of this is a full sized semi with a full length 50ft trailer, so you can work the rest out for yourselves!.
As you go higher the vegetation changes. These cacti only seem to flourish within a fairly limited altitude range.
Here the lake is even shallower with sandbeds appearing. The railway has now joined us having followed the old road for the first 100km out of Lazaro Cardenas. We have heard a few trains but not seen many.
This lake is actually huge and floods two valleys, each for over 80km and up to 12km wide
It is a long and empty road heading north for the town of Uruapan where it joins the 15D that we have travelled before and then turns east towards Pátzcuaro and Morelia and eventually to Mexico City.
More bridges as we cross from one side of the valley to the other.
Finally we reach Pátzcuaro which sits beside a lake. Many smaller communities live around the lake and some even on the islands on the lake. This is Isla Janitzio, a Mexican version of Mont St Michel, and famous for the festivities on the Day of the Dead in November.
And so to yet another empty campsite where we have the pick of the spaces. The only snag with this one was the train which runs across the entrance (at 0330hrs) Scared the day(night)lights out of Jan!