The South Riding RV Travels

501

30th April 2009 - Canyon del Cobre - Posada Barrancas and Divisidero, Chihuahua, México

It was suggested that we went back to the canyon rim at dawn. I must be mad but I went at 0600hrs. The sun came up on the far side of the canyon so photos were near to impossible but I was glad I went.
The colour of the hotel changes radically as the rays of the rising sun catch it.
Looking down into the canyon we spotted this tiny house perched on a flat spot halfway down. I've no idea how they eke out a living down there but apparently quite a number do.
We walked down a cliff path about 1000ft and found another dwelling under a cliff. Although brick built these days, this was probably originally a cave dwelling. The receptacle at the bottom left is to collect water from the rock seepage just above. There are a few cultivated fruit trees and some other produce being grown and a small hut with baskets and other handicrafts for sale. Even at 0630hrs in the morning they watched us although they are very shy. They must get very tired of tourists. But it must be even harder without...
Another madrona tree clinging illogically to a rock. How vegetation survives here is a miracle.
We thought we might have some breakfast at the hotel but although the doors were open......
there was nobody inside!. We called in again later and still saw nobody but staff. This place can only be afforded by international travellers (mainly American) and when they stop coming as they have done .....
So we walked back down to the farm for breakfast, passing the small church along the way. Although the Indians escaped the Spanish conquistadors, the Jesuits eventually got to them and they adopted a form of Catholicism.
However this is much simpler than most catholic churches we have seen, but to my mind more in keeping with the people it purports to serve.
Back at the farm we had a good breakfast and then prepared to depart. The mornings are still quite chilly enough to need a jacket, just until the sun gets to you. The owner had agreed to drive us around some of the local views and then into Creel rather than us taking the local bus.
The rooms were very comfortable with en suite showers and toilet and air conditioning. The other rooms had all the signs of modern living and there were several vehicles around. Whilst this was not a wealthy family they were doing all right. This was not third world living.
So we set off in a minibus to visit a number of viewpoints and look down into the canyons.
After a while they all look very similar. Because there are so many canyons  we are not sure which is which. To really see this area they suggest back packing in for about 10 days. We aren't that fit!
And I'm not sure I've got that much head for heights. That rock the couple is standing on wobbles, and it is a 2000ft sheer drop down! This is Piedra Volada (Balancing Rock) and it looks down on Urique canyon which is up to 4265 ft deep and has a total length of 932 miles. That's four times the length of the Grand Canyon.
I just look at the scenery, which is so far removed from anything we have in England. The canyons in places are deeper than Britain's highest mountain.
But it is the eerie quiet which seems to pervade the whole area. Even the noise of the people around you doesn't detract from that.
Jan is happy - she notices different things to me. All of these places have their collections of Tarahumara Indians selling their baskets and other handicrafts. It is almost always women with young female children.
They are colourfully dressed and many seem to be continually working particularly on the baskets which they make quite quickly.
The children can be adorable. But we were told that few of them go to school since it is not in the Indian culture and the government doesn't compel them like they do with other Mexican children. This helps to preserve their culture but does nothing to improve their health, or standard of living. This contributes to keeping the overall standards lower in Mexico and is part of what keeps it classified as a developing country rather than a developed one.