The South Riding RV Travels

497

21st-22nd April 2009 - Alamos, Sonora, México Sonora

Travelling south from Guaymas at Empalme we came across this old steam engine on display at the side of the road near where they hold a market some days.
The countryside is changing now from the desert scrub which we have had for the last 700 miles to farmland. The crop looked like wheat but seemed very short in height. They have started harvesting the grain already. I guess they maybe grow two crops a year here.
Alamos is some 50km from the main road heading eastwards. The campsite, behind a hotel, was completely empty thus enabling us to select a shady spot. Sadly we had not bargained for the nightclub which blasted out a bass drumbeat until 0500hrs in the morning. It made me physically sick.
This was one of the shade trees. Jan tried one and decided they were kumquats.

Alamos is a town of about 8,000 inhabitants and is about 50 miles from the coast and at 1300ft. It was established in 1685 when rich silver deposits were found in the area. There is a lot of work going on in the town at the moment to improve it as they are applying for it to be given World Heritage Site status. This is being led by a group of Americans.

The campsite is half a mile from the village centre so we walked in early the following morning. It gets too hot by midday. Most of the better streets and houses are like this with big shuttered windows. Many of the windows have grilles so you can open the windows but people can't get in.
Many of the buildings, like this hotel, have internal courtyards and shade and airflow have been carefully managed in the design.
Everybody in Mexico works - you don't work, you don't eat. There are hundreds of street vendors trying to sell you all sorts of things.
Some of the windows are quite ornate and the security grills are similarly artistic.
This impressive building acted as the town hall but also as a theatre at some point in its life. It is a very imposing building.
The wide passageways opening onto the theatre area made us think that there had originally been a central courtyard that was then roofed over when the stage was built. Council type offices are behind all the doors in the side aisles.
This is the biggest but not the oldest church in Alamos. The outside of the church is very ornate as it often is with catholic churches.
Inside is plainer than many we have been in but there are still lots of statues and folk praying. Mexico is still a very religious country.
A point of architectural detail. This light fitting in the biggest church is quite beautiful.
They are even repairing churches. The scaffolding around the cupola is quite complex but it also seems more secure than some of the jury rigged scaffolding we have seen in some places.
There is a garden square just in front of the church with several folk at work on it. Mexicans seem to take gardening seriously.
We suddenly heard trumpets and drums and found these kids practising as a marching band probably for the big celebrations on the 5th May. They had some way to go to match the high school and college bands in the US.
We were offered a tour around the town and up to the viewpoints in this Toyota. It had had the top cut off and more seats fitted and a makeshift roof. 200 pesos for a couple of hours didn't seem expensive.
We would never have walked up to the top of the hill overlooking the town even if we could have found the way. This is the river bed for the river which flows though the town. Today it was a muddy trickle but last October there was a flood which washed away several bridges. Many of the streets have pavements almost a foot above the road but many houses were flooded and you can still see the level reached by the flood waters on the walls
Alamos has an airport which you can just see in the distance but there are no regularly scheduled flights.
Our guide pointed out the iguanas sunning themselves on the rocks. They weren't very big.
As we drove round the outskirts of the village he pointed out some white tailed deer which someone keeps in their garden.
We visited the local jail and he showed us where they took the prisoners out to be shot. They used to do a lot of that.
.I liked the cell phone tower which had been skilfully camouflaged to look like a tree. Unfortunately the storm tore off or damaged many of the 'branches'.
This house was on the market before the slump for $600,000 US. Now they are adding the white bit as an extension. Of the 8000 odd inhabitants in the town, over 1000 are Americans
Many of the services in Mexico are a bit unreliable. However with TV aerials like this one I can see why.
And so we headed out back down the road we had come in on and under (round) the welcome arch currently under construction.