The South Riding RV Travels

329

15th July 2007 - Rimouski QC to Grande Vallee QC

The south bank of the St Lawrence is now becoming more interesting as the flat plains  of the Canadian shield give way to the most northerly vestiges of the Appalachian chain in the Gaspe peninsula.
The road winds up and down through numerous small villages each in its own valley and with its own church as the rivers come down to the Seaway.
In places the road comes down to sea level and there are even signs warning about the waves splashing over the road in winter. This is a windy area and the wind farms can be seen on the hilltops. Even here there are still not as many running as we would expect.
The largest aeolian windmill in the world is near here and you can go visit it. It is no longer operational and the blades have been removed. I'm not quite sure whether what we see now is what was built originally, or whether the two curved arms have been added to stabilise it.
As we continue eastwards the villages are further apart and the coastline is more rugged. I would think this road is almost impassable in winter, and there are no inland alternatives on the peninsula as the terrain is too steep.
The geology is all tilted here as the cliffs fall precipitously to the water. There are lighthouses too to aid the navigation in these treacherous waters. The Empress of Ireland sank not far from here with the loss of over 1000 lives.
But we are at the end now and the ships can turn south. They are still in the Gulf of St Lawrence bay though - the Atlantic Ocean proper doesn't start until you have passed between Nova Scotia and Newfoundland, which is somewhere out there. The boat is a self unloading ore carrier. The unloading conveyors on the upper deck could be seen with binoculars.
This is one of a very pretty row of picnic sites on the far side of a small lake. The light was such that they were all reflected in the lake surface. Unfortunately we only caught one and there was nowhere to stop.
Occasionally there is a village squeezed into the small flat space at the bottom of the cliff between the river and the hills and we had a chance to catch it on the road in.
Or we came over the brow of a hill and found it usually laid out around the river mouth with the spire of the church providing a landmark for those on land and sea.
We have talked about getting an auxiliary vehicle to tow behind the RV. This is my idea of what we need. I particularly like the idea of towing on a trailer. I'm very suspicious of the dolly and direct tow options. Unfortunately they don't sell Smart cars in the US yet. Perhaps buying in Canada and registering in the US would be another bureaucratic nightmare option. Of course in wilder moments I consider a BMW Z3.....
We camped at a site on the shore and wandered down to watch the sun set. A few clouds always help to set of the colours and make for a delightful sight.
We weren't alone and I think the figures just add the perfect touch at the end of the day.