The South Riding RV Travels

295

26th May 2007 - Jamestown VA Virginia

Close to Williamsburg is Jamestown which was the site of the first English settlement to succeed. The settlers came over from England and landed on 4th May 1607 in three ships. This model is of the Godspeed, a cargo ship of 40 tons captained by Bartholomew Gosnold and carried 39 passengers and 13 crew. It was 88ft long and 17ft wide, a mast height of 71ft and a draft of 9ft. The voyage lasted 144 days, which must have been very uncomfortable in such a small ship.
The flagship of the group was the Susan Constant. It was 116ft long and 24ft10in in the beam. The masts were 95ft high and the draft was 11ft9in. She weighed 120 tons and carried 54 passengers and 17 crew. The captain was Christopher Newport.
The smallest ship was the Discovery. This was a pinnace with a crew of 9 and 12 passengers. She was 66ft long and 14ft wide. Her mast was 59ft and her draft 6ft 6in. She weighed in at 20tons and was captained by John Radcliffe.

The party boat I once rowed on the river at Knaresborough was over 30ft long and 7ft wide and carried 40 passengers. I cannot conceive crossing the Atlantic in the Discovery!

Equally bizarre is that almost the first thing you build on these alien shores is a church. This takes precedence over the food store and almost over the walls. Admittedly this wasn't it. The first church was built of wood and burned down in 1608. It was replaced by a second of similar design. The third church was also built of wood but on cobblestone foundations which can still be seen within today's church. The fourth was built in 1639-47. This burned down during Bacon's rebellion in 1676. The fifth church was more substantial, being built of bricks, and lasted until the 1750s when it fell into disrepair. The bricks were then used to build the gravestone wall in 1790. The present church was built in 1906 using parts of the original 1647 tower.
Fortunately most of the natives were initially friendly. This is a statue of Pocahontas who was a favourite daughter of Powhatan who ruled the local tribes. She was born in 1595 and married to the original settler John Rolfe in 1614 in the third church. She visited England in 1616. She died in 1617 while returning to Virginia and is buried in Gravesend, England.
Here is an example of the first building type and may well have been the construction form used in the first church. This is known as mud and stud construction. Similar methods were used at the time in Lincolnshire from whence many of the early settlers came.
A stout stockade was built around the settlement. Note that wooden pegs were used instead of nails since these were in very short supply and could not yet be manufactured locally.
They only had small cannon for protection and it is likely that these were used more for signalling than serious action.

We kept being asked why we hadn't visited Jamestown a couple of weeks earlier when the Queen came. We thought it would have been much too busy and besides, we've seen her. She made a big impression on the Americans though

I suspect this cannon did not fire a salute!

There are two sites at Jamestown. One is a national park at the original site, the other is more a commercial museum with replicas, but very well done with each period in history in a separate hall..
Outside is a Powhatan village showing the construction methods they used. These houses would have been very practical and would have been fairly easy to move, important in their nomadic lifestyle. But these tribes also farmed, and there are several docents tending the crops of corn and squashes and carrying out other tasks, and telling the visitors about how they lived.
Inside is also well laid out with furs, pots and baskets. They are also cool with two entrances to provide a through draft.
Down at the harbour are replicas of the three ships on which the settlers arrived. This helps to fix the size of the ships much better than the models. These replicas have all been made in the last ten years and are all capable of sailing up and down Chesapeake Bay. They obviously do this since we ran into an event at which one was to appear a few days later. With the 400th anniversary being this year, I think they have been quite busy.
We went on board the Susan Constant and were able to wander up and down. There isn't much room even with only ten or so tourists on board. It must have been horrendous when fully loaded.
Down on the lower deck is very cramped. You have to duck your head all the time. There are so many obstacles that it must have been very dangerous in the dark and with a pitching sea. The ship had a few small cannon so it was not unprotected.
Looking down on the pinnace Discovery, it seems very small.  Pleasure motor boats for pottering about Chesapeake Bay are larger...
Up aloft the sailors are re-lashing a sail. I would have been wary of trying to do that in harbour much less at sea and in the midst of an Atlantic gale!
Back on land is a replica of the fort which was built by the settlers although this is now quite a substantial undertaking. The houses are solidly built but represent a slightly later period  when the community was beginning to thrive.
The houses are still built in styles of the period but this seems more Suffolk than Lincolnshire to me. Most cooking would still have been done outside.
The church here is a substantial building 50ft by 20ft and thus is likely to represent the third church which thus dates the site portrayed to the mid 1650s.
Inside the houses there are some surprises including this beautifully carved end to a bed. I cannot believe that they would have had the time to produce work like this at a time when over half the original settlers were being killed or died within the first few years. It really was touch and go for a while and indeed there was an earlier settlement at Roanoke which vanished without trace. Even these settlers were preparing to abandon the settlement and return to England when a supply ship turned up in the nick of time.
These houses seem fairly solid, I don't think the settlers had such good accommodations when they first began to build. But we were running out of time and they were on the point of closing so we had little opportunity to explore deeper.
The store was also substantial, but it would have been vital that the meagre supplies brought in by ship and grown were protected from the elements. We would have liked to have debated the construction but it was time to move on.