The South Riding RV Travels

293

24th May 2007 - Williamsburg VA Virginia

So we came to Colonial Williamsburg which is a theme park of the Revolutionary War period in US history. The Americans are very good at this sort of thing and strive for accuracy with plenty of people on hand to provide the living history. It is expensive to go in and we got a two day ticket which we felt was good value.

Here they are building a log barn with traditional tools and methods which will ultimately be used to store the corn they are growing in the adjacent field. They were proud to point out that the top is within an inch of being level for the roof. The gaps will ultimately be filled with clay and straw. The work will take a long time because they spend so much time talking to the visitors!

We had seen this style of fencing (known as Virginian split rail) at Gettysburg and Antietam and we thought it was a military design. Not so. Apparently it was used by the early settlers to keep animals OUT of the crops. We have tried to establish where it came from before then but without success. Many of the settlers in this area came from Lincolnshire but it isn't a style from there.
This is one of the most imposing buildings on the site which has a total of 88 original or replica buildings. It is a substantial brick built mansion with much decoration as befits the Governor's residence. It was built between 1706 and 1722 when Williamsburg was the capital of the colony of Virginia (1699-1780). The building is a replica, the original having burned down in 1781. It was reconstructed from drawings found on copper plates in the Bodleian library in Oxford.
The gateway is surmounted by the lion and the unicorn and coats of arms for King George since this was still an English colony at the time(1770).
We had a guided tour of the inside. There are several imposing beds in the bedrooms. It is interesting to note that beds were usually shorter and narrower than they would be today although it should be remembered that wealthy people mostly slept alone.
The walls in the entrance hall are amazing, being absolutely covered in muskets and swords and rapiers, true to contemporary descriptions. This could have been (and probably was) the arms repository for the county militia. In 1775 the inventory stated there were 230 muskets, 292 swords and 18 incomplete pistols (without locks). So they stored them on the walls, both as a decoration and as a visible deterrent. Williamsburg probably has the largest number of Brown Bess muskets in the world collected in the 1940-50s when nobody else wanted them.
An elegant ballroom had been added on with lofty ceilings, chandeliers and paintings of King George and his wife on the walls. It is interesting to note that the ballroom was originally carpeted and the walls were papered with quarto sized sheets of paper. Wallpaper was very fashionable but not yet available in rolls. The colours are also true to the period.
Music was very important in the higher levels of society and many of the women particularly were accomplished musicians. Of particular pride is this six stringed bass viol de Gamba. These instruments date from the 1400s and were  tuned in fourths (D-G-C-E-A-D) rather than the modern violins which are in fifths. The outward facing C shapes suggest this is a 17th century instrument. There are also several harpsichords on show. They even let one young girl play one (she had some skills).
As there was no photography high society had their portraits painted. I'm not sure they always got the proportions right. I'm sure her head would have been relatively larger. This painting in the ballroom was by Allan Ramsey and is of Queen Charlotte (née Duchess Sophia Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Strelitz; 1744 – 1818). She was the queen consort of George III, the grandmother of Queen Victoria and the great-great-great grandmother of Queen Elizabeth II.
This shows the rear of the mansion with the ballroom surrounded by formal gardens with boxwood hedges. There is a maze at the bottom of the garden.
Underneath are several cellars for storing beers, wines, and food of all sorts. The kitchens were in a separate building to avoid the danger of fire.
Besides growing many of their own vegetables using varieties and methods of the time, the modern day kitchen staff also prepare meals of the time. This would have been a typical family dinner. They make these just for display and can keep them for up to four days before having to start over again. Most of the time is spent keeping small fingers out! No wonder the higher echelons were stout!
Behind the kitchen is the kitchen garden. Many more herbs were grown and used than is common in most gardens today.
Out on the green was a cordoned off area in use by the props department of a period film being shot in the complex. This is quite a common occurrence. However we didn't see anybody famous and we don't even know which film it was going to be.
Many buildings are open to the fee paying public. Most are rather less grand than the governor's palace but show more of the wood and metal utensils in everyday use.
We found the workshops particularly interesting and most have docents on hand to demonstrate the various skills. It is interesting that they still take on apprentices and teach them the old skills. This is a wheelwright's shop. A wheelwright was a very skilled man having mastered a great number of tasks covering both wood and metalworking as well as considerable engineering design.
I think this is the boot and shoemaker's shop. They still make the shoes for the docents in the styles of the time. In the 1770s they were just beginning to make right and left-handed shoes - before, each shoe was the same and assumed right or left footed characteristics with wear.
The other major building is the Capitol. This is the third building constructed on this site. The first was built in 1700-1705 and burned down in 1745. The second was built in 1753, the west wing was demolished in 1793 and the east wing burned in 1832. The modern replica was built in 1934. This was the seat of the colony's government.
Virginia was originally a huge colony covering most of present day Virginia, West Virginia, Kentucky, Ohio, Indiana and Michigan. A colony in those days occupied the area between 2 latitudes and extended from the coast to the Ohio river. The west was still owned by the French.
Modern Colonial Williamsburg came into being when Rev W A R Goodwin persuaded John D Rockefeller to become interested in restoring the historical area. His philanthropy eventually funded most of the early purchase and recreation of the 313 acres it now covers. Rockefeller and his wife fell in love with this house, Bassett Hall, and bought it as a Spring time home. It was one of their favourite homes and they furnished it with lots of art, hers art deco and modern folk pieces and his more traditional (though I wouldn't give house room to any of them). We did tour the house but decided not to visit the gallery with more of her collections.
Williamsburg has daily re-enactments of the start of the revolutionary process with speeches by actors representing people such as Thomas Jefferson and Patrick Henry (both of whom later became governors). This usually culminates in the firing of muskets and guns with a great deal of noise to excite the kids.
I tried very hard to capture the exact moment but the delay on digital cameras makes this a very difficult art..