The South Riding RV Travels

251

January 30th - Key Largo FL - Sugarloaf Key FL Florida

As we left the John Pennekamp State Park and headed south for Key West, we passed this sale item at the side of the road. It is an extensively "customized" 1949/50 Buick. Much of the chrome trim (which makes the model year more easily identifiable) has been removed as part of the customizing - cleaning off all the trim is often done to make the body lines more prominent without the distraction of all the "gingerbread".
When chrome has been removed from the hood (bonnet) it is said that the car is "nosed", referring to the removal of trim from the "nose" of the car. Similarly, removing trim from the trunk (boot) is referred to by saying the car has been "decked", the term coming from the fact that the trunk lid is often referred to as the deck lid. Hence "nosed & decked" is a standard customizing ritual of removing trim from the hood & trunk.
The headlights have been "frenched" - ie the chrome trim that usually surrounds the lights has been removed and the fenders extended a couple of inches in order to tuck the lights back into the body. The front bumper is either from another car or is custom made, as is the grille. So, now you are an expert on the American fascination with customizing old cars..... (Thanks to Thom Mohr.)
Most of the road is fairly boring. It is a two lane highway with few passing places and speed limits most of the way. You also can't see the sea for most of the journey, although when you can you realize that the road is at an altitude of less than five feet.
Even down here you find house moves in progress. This is the second half of a pair probably en route to replace one damaged by a hurricane.
The keys are actually just a collection of sand bar islands which have been linked by a highway with bridges like this one across the gaps.
Many of the keys are inhabited but they are often gated communities. There are few places where ordinary people can get anywhere near the coast itself. Much of the coast of Florida is in private hands.
Even when you have houses on the keys, canals have been cut so that each house has a dock as well as a garage. A boat is at least as important as a car. This is not a place for the poor of America.
If you can't afford a house with a dock then you can keep your boat at the marina. Many of the RV parks have their own marinas. The snowbirds come down with their RV, their tow-behind car, and their boat behind that. Two trailers behind a vehicle is not legal in many states but it does seem to be ignored on the interstates.
Some of the bridges are quite long. This one is seven miles. The posts in the water carry electricity and are steel  pylons. The bridge on the right is the remains of the Key West Railroad built by Henry Flagler and opened in 1902. It ended when a section was washed away (complete with train) in a hurricane in 1935.
It is quite a feat of engineering. Some sections have now been removed to allow boats to pass between the keys. The road bridge rises at such points to allow taller boats to pass. The bridge sections are now used extensively by the myriads of fishermen.
Some sections of the railway were built of steel and a road was built on top. Now no longer used, it is a reminder of how the keys were won.
There are tiny, often unnamed keys, uninhabited and covered by mangroves. Some of these are barely above the water. The extensive shoals and reefs around the keys help to reduce the storm surges which cause most of the damage in hurricanes. So most of the damage down here is caused by wind.
So you buy your diesel pusher mobile home and then you buy a matching 'toy box' to carry your Harley, ATV, canoes, outside barbecue etc etc. You don't buy rigs like this for under half a million. This RV is very close to the ground when parked and rises almost a foot on startup as the air suspension kicks in.
The camp site had not long reopened after hurricane Wilma which had flooded the site to a depth of five feet, along with anything left on it like this caravan. Now it blocks a site. The owners aren't interested and the site owners haven't the legal authority to remove it. Some of these fall apart when you try to pull them out. A crane will be needed to remove this. Cost - far more than it is worth.
The site isn't five feet above sea level. It is actually based around a quarry, now full of water, from which the stone was removed to build the Flagler railway. Miles of salt-tolerant reeds make up most of Sugarloaf Key and many of the others.
A little more height and you can get shrubs with the sun setting on the horizon.
Along the roadside and around the campsite are a few higher shrubs. The sunsets we saw were often not as amazing as you might expect because of the clear blue skies.
You actually need clouds to give you an impressive display at sunset. Then it gets dark very quickly. You end up taking a different shot every 30 seconds.
Just to show we aren't the only nuts with scooters we caught sight of this one on the back of a caravan.
And I even persuaded Jan to try it out. You don't need a motorcycle licence to drive a 50cc scooter in Florida. But it still takes great concentration as can be clearly seen here. This scooter will do 50mph but here is only doing 5mph (it's a lot harder at that speed).