The South Riding RV Travels

248

January 27th - Northern Everglades FL Florida

We carried on from Naples across the Tamiami Trail towards Miami. We paused to look in on a boardwalk which formed an outpost of the Fakahatchee Strand state park. You need to keep your eyes open, you can't see much of an alligator in the water. He was even harder to spot when we came back.
There was the now familiar collection of trees ranging from dry pines to wet cypress. Most notable though was the number of air plants high up in the branches and looking more like old birds' nests. Some trees were covered in them.
This is a royal palm, a species which is now quite scarce in the wild but which is common in people's gardens. Here they provide excellent shade to the more fragile plants underneath. But they are prone to losing their leaves in a hurricane.
Another common tree is the strangler fig. A seed for this lodges on a trunk and as it grows it sends roots down to the ground. Eventually it strangles the host tree which dies although continuing to provide support, but it now has its own well-established root system for survival. It can reach a significant size, often larger then its original host.
Some of the tree barks have deep fissures. These provide a ready home for the air plants and other bromeliads. These aren't parasites on the tree but merely use it for support and live on the water and nutrients which gather in its crevices or the surrounding air.
At the end of the boardwalk is a small lake/pond with a dead log floating in it. On the log was a family of baby alligators no more than a foot long. It isn't very clear but it reminds us of what we could see with the binoculars.
A little closer was this Florida turtle with its characteristic yellow bottom. This one didn't have two heads.
All along the road are a number of Miccosukee Indian villages. These have close boarded fences all round and a number of thatched huts inside. The palmetto thatching was really all we could see but it all looked in really good condition. They are an offshoot of the Seminole and Creek tribes who used to inhabit Florida before it was made an Indian free zone and all the Indians sent to Oklahoma. A few remained in the Everglades.
We moved on along US41 towards the eastern end and stopped in at the Shark Valley entrance to the Everglades National Park. From here they run a two hour tram tour down into the Everglades with a ranger telling you about the birds and the environment. This is home to more alligators which are everywhere at this time of year (which is the dry season when the water levels are low so the wildlife congregates near the deeper pools and creeks). Now they mostly just snooze in the sun at the side of the road. They can do 30mph so you don't get too close on foot...
Mostly they just seem too exhausted to do anything. Partly at this time of year they are too cold. But I admire the totally flopped out stance. The grass here is much coarser than we have at home. I suppose this variety finds it easier to cope with the feast or famine conditions.
Almost every waterway has at least one blue heron. A pair of nesting wood storks consume 440lb of fish in a season, and I don't suppose the herons consume much less. It makes you wonder how many fish there are in there.
This is periphyton, an algae which gathers around the dead grass stalks and forms the bottom of the food chain for the whole ecosystem. In the dry season it forms a mat which dries out on top but retains moisture underneath and so preserves the eggs and tiny creatures for the next season.
The water in the Everglades is mostly moving very slowly rather than stagnant. Think of it as a river 90 miles wide and a few inches deep. The terrain actually drops 14ft between Lake Okeechobee in the middle of Florida and the southern coast. Various water management schemes have affected this flow and impacted the Everglades which once covered over 3 million acres.
It all acts as a huge filtration system. You know the water quality is good when you get this relative of the water lily. Just a few small yellow flowers at this season, but I'm sure there are many more later in the year.
The tram tour totals 14 miles and this tower is the halfway point. From the observation platform you can see over 80 miles on a clear day. Not that there is a lot to see, it is an almost dead flat sea of predominantly saw grass with isolated hammocks of trees and shrubs where the land rises a foot or two. And overhead are the constantly circling raptors looking for a snack.
There are no roads in this area and it is 50 miles to the sea. Truly a wilderness area and one of the most fragile environments on the planet.
There is quite a variety of birds, most notably the anhinga which is common all along the Gulf coast in freshwater swamp areas.
More difficult is spotting their nests. Both the males and the females sit on the nest, the males seem to take the afternoon shift. Perhaps all males appreciate a snooze in the afternoon.
They are fine fishermen and swim about on the water with very little but their necks showing, and disappear underwater for up to several minutes. They are mainly black but have beautiful white patterns on their wings, and webbed feet. This one has a brown neck which means that it is a female.
But the Everglades are really the home of the alligators, and if one decides to take a snooze on the path, then that path is closed to humans for the afternoon.