The South Riding RV Travels

107

August 15th - Fallon NV - Ely NV

The Nevada desert was populated in really ancient times and there are prehistoric relics and pictographs on many sites. This was one such site which we visited. I must confess that it seems difficult to distinguish between weather erosion, modern graffiti and true prehistoric paintings. I guess we are just not archeologists.
When it rains here, it rains, but it dries off very quickly. This leads to salt deposits and makes for a very inhospitable growing medium. Thus you end up with salt flats with only odd bits of scrub. This does little to stop the natural erosion. This is not a populated area.
In some areas the construction of the road has interrupted the natural water flow and in such cases you get dried up water courses following the roads. Some people had collected small stones and written their names along the edge of the watercourse. It looked quite artistic but I think it is just another form of graffiti.
Sometimes the ground will not even support the scrub and then you get almost a lake bottom effect. From a distance it looks wet and it is easy to see how mirages happen. We saw a number of 'dry' lakes.
A bit further on we came to Sand Mountain. Actually it is within its own sate park and is very popular with the ATV community who race up and down the hill. The wind catches the top of the ridge and causes the dune to 'sing' when it is blowing at the right frequency. Most of the desert is much coarser so Sand Mountain was an unusual feature.
Nevada is not flat, there are a number of mountain ranges. It is often described as a series of basins which once upon a time would have held water. There are over 90 of these basins between California and Utah.
At times it seems endless as you come over the gap in the mountains only to have another vista, just like the last one with a road snaking across it for what seems like miles. This is still US 50, the Loneliest Road!
Some valleys have slightly more ground water and so you get rather more scrub, and the mountains in the background can look quite attractive as the sun catches them. If there is any sort of weather system about, then the light is constantly changing and the beauty of the view spread before you changes by the minute.
But often the road is dead straight, down one hillside, across the flat bottom of the basin and then up the other side. The road across is often 20 miles without a curve, and you can drive it without seeing another vehicle.
And when you need a break, you can stop in at the next set of petroglyphs. Although by now it was becoming a case of petroglyphs, so?. Even though these were reputed to be 10,000 years old and had their own state park and campground. The campground was empty so we aren't the only heathens....
It was interesting to watch the weather as it moved from north to south as we went west to east. We never quite managed to be in the rainfall although it was obvious that there was significant water falling..
There were occasional towns (usually populations below 1,000). This was the old mining community of Eureka, named after the Greek for 'I have found it!' Apart from cars replacing horses and the population having shrunk by a factor of 10, these places have not changed much in a century.
There was little real change to the landscape, although it was changing gradually. We eventually stopped at a town called Ely. One thing you start to do in every town is to look at the gas stations. In this part of the world you never let the tank go below a quarter full. Gas stations can be, and are, 200 miles apart!